December 2022
It is December and the snow has fallen. Grand Marais is beautiful year-round but nothing compares to when everything is coated in a layer of white. Drive east out of town and you will soon find yourself on H-58. It’s a far cry from the bare roads of M-77 and M-28, looking more like something out of Ice Road Truckers. In fact, it’ll feel that way too when you’re passed by snowmobiles and logging trucks that kick up little “snownadoes” that produce tiny temporary whiteouts.
Brave the road though and you’ll eventually cross Grand Marais Creek – gateway to the School Forest. You’ll notice a distinct change in the forest structure moving from once what was densely packed aspen stands and scraggly spruce and balsam to giant red pine behemoths, standing tall as they nod to greet you with gently falling poofs of snow. You then bear left to enter the School Forest.
It’s important to take your time on the main road, not only because it can be tight and winding but because the towering red pines and the snow they’re wearing is truly beautiful and you won’t want to take the magic of it for granted. As red pine trees grow vertically their foliage tends to be concentrated towards the middle and top leaving just the bare trunk at hiker’s-eye-level. This allows you to peer deep into the forest of the red pine stand and take stock of the scene.
Eventually you’ll end up at the Sucker River where you park your vehicle. The first thing you might notice after you step outside is the sheer remoteness. You might even feel slightly vulnerable knowing how deep into the Upper Michigan woods you really are. Even though you’re only four miles from Grand Marais, it can feel like you’re the only person for 100 miles.
Walking south back across the Sucker River bridge you take stock of the ever changing conditions. This time the river is still flowing but beginning to ice up from the sides. A fleeting thought about how fish can survive the cold crosses your mind as you become momentarily hypnotized by the running water. After a few minutes just staring at the stream you manage to snap out of the trance and continue on your way. Whether in snowshoes or on skis, the trails through the School Forest in winter are enjoyable to all.
Walking through the woods after a fresh layer of snow has just covered everything is an otherworldly experience. No matter what trail you choose to go down, your senses will fire all the same. The smell is of crisp, clean, cold air. The touch is soft and light. The sounds are muted and dull, save for the wind in the crowns of the trees. The sights are plentiful – beautiful healthy trees and wildlife like birds, squirrels, rabbits, and maybe even a fox or pine marten. As you do your loop you can’t help but be thankful for the opportunity to experience such conditions. We are truly lucky.
As you return back to your vehicle and prepare to leave another, less fleeting, thought crosses your mind. Where you once felt vulnerable, you now feel invincible. You have survived the forest. This refreshing thought drives with you away from the parking area, through the red pines, and out onto H-58. Sitting at the stop sign you plan for your return.
